I've now Uploaded all the Info from GTR that was eluded to in my Tale of Fitting ...
E-Diff wiring diagram
CAN Wiring Diagrams
Exhaust Removal
Rear Half-Shaft Removal
Rear Diff Removal
Locking Diff retro-fit
Re: Diff Swap
No - the operation of the rear e-diff is nothing to do with having the sat nav screen or not....
But you will need it to be able to see the padlocks to show when it locks up. If you don't have it, it'll just lock up without "telling you" about it.
But you will need it to be able to see the padlocks to show when it locks up. If you don't have it, it'll just lock up without "telling you" about it.
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Neild
- Forum Contributor
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Funniest Thread of the Year 2012 - Car Details: Wife's D4
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Re: Diff Swap
ooooooooooh padlocks 
There's no "i" in team but there are 5 in individual brilliance...
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scooterforever
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2023 1:01 pm
- Car Details: 2006 LR3
Re: Locking Diff retro-fit
This is a quick 'thank you' to Spooky for all the documentation work you did on documenting this project.
For the last several years I have been upgrading my 4.4L 2006 LR3 with base level trim to the upgraded factory (and non-factory) options. Simply things like Xenon lights, rain sensing wipers, and then the more complicated bit of wiring work -- OEM NAV install. I know, it's a very outdated NAV system, but I wanted the 4x4 information screen. Two years ago with your information on the e-diff retrofit, I acquired the necessary parts: e-diff, new e-diff motor, fresh bolts, the necessary sockets for removal of the prop shaft from the diff, etc.
The wiring was the hardest part. I was unable to find complete factory wiring looms, although I did have extensive lengths of high and low speed CAN wiring, twisted, in the necessary lengths from having acquired various factory wiring looms for doing the OEM NAV install. While I could not get the necessary harnesses for the e-diff retrofit, I *was* able to get the electrical connectors with some lengths of wiring to the differential controller, the differential motor and differential temp sensor. So... with the matching bits at the ends, I just made my own wiring harnesses.
I did get distracted for ~2 years by two '05 supercharged Jaguars that I acquired, but with those restored I'm back to the LR3 with enthusiasm. I am now ready to do the swap. I have decided to have the diff rebuilt and that will take a week or two (I'll send that out), but installation is finally approach.
While it is difficult to add value to the incredible documentation Spooky did, I might have one small incremental finding. Spooky wrote about setting up temporary CAN connections in case he had inserted the differential controller in the wrong order. The non-e-diff CAN wiring goes off-road mode switch to parking brake controller, and the e-diff wiring goes off-road mode switch to e-diff controller to parking brake controller. While I would still endeavor to get this order installed correctly (and can be done with multi-meters and the LR3 electrical diagram, as the OEM connector has the pins numbered on the e-diff harness), I did noticed that with the differential controller unpowered (and unconfigued and not hooked up in any way), the high and low CAN lines (YB and YN wires) coming from the switch and going out to the parking brake controller are fully electrically connected. As a result, while I have not tested it with an operating controller (and because I have the right order, do not plan to) it is possible the order does not have a significant impact.
Fantastic writeup, Spooky, and many thanks.
Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to get the exhaust off. I live in a heavily salted area, and the bolts on the exhaust have turned into little mounds of rust.
For the last several years I have been upgrading my 4.4L 2006 LR3 with base level trim to the upgraded factory (and non-factory) options. Simply things like Xenon lights, rain sensing wipers, and then the more complicated bit of wiring work -- OEM NAV install. I know, it's a very outdated NAV system, but I wanted the 4x4 information screen. Two years ago with your information on the e-diff retrofit, I acquired the necessary parts: e-diff, new e-diff motor, fresh bolts, the necessary sockets for removal of the prop shaft from the diff, etc.
The wiring was the hardest part. I was unable to find complete factory wiring looms, although I did have extensive lengths of high and low speed CAN wiring, twisted, in the necessary lengths from having acquired various factory wiring looms for doing the OEM NAV install. While I could not get the necessary harnesses for the e-diff retrofit, I *was* able to get the electrical connectors with some lengths of wiring to the differential controller, the differential motor and differential temp sensor. So... with the matching bits at the ends, I just made my own wiring harnesses.
I did get distracted for ~2 years by two '05 supercharged Jaguars that I acquired, but with those restored I'm back to the LR3 with enthusiasm. I am now ready to do the swap. I have decided to have the diff rebuilt and that will take a week or two (I'll send that out), but installation is finally approach.
While it is difficult to add value to the incredible documentation Spooky did, I might have one small incremental finding. Spooky wrote about setting up temporary CAN connections in case he had inserted the differential controller in the wrong order. The non-e-diff CAN wiring goes off-road mode switch to parking brake controller, and the e-diff wiring goes off-road mode switch to e-diff controller to parking brake controller. While I would still endeavor to get this order installed correctly (and can be done with multi-meters and the LR3 electrical diagram, as the OEM connector has the pins numbered on the e-diff harness), I did noticed that with the differential controller unpowered (and unconfigued and not hooked up in any way), the high and low CAN lines (YB and YN wires) coming from the switch and going out to the parking brake controller are fully electrically connected. As a result, while I have not tested it with an operating controller (and because I have the right order, do not plan to) it is possible the order does not have a significant impact.
Fantastic writeup, Spooky, and many thanks.
Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to get the exhaust off. I live in a heavily salted area, and the bolts on the exhaust have turned into little mounds of rust.