What have you done today.....
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- anglefire
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Re: What have you done today.....
I've had subsequent advice that the studs should only be finger tight and not torqued at all! And even others that say to back of 1/4 turn.PillowSmuggler wrote: ↑Wed Dec 20, 2017 7:36 pmWeirdly Mark the two nuts works quite simply, though when ever I've fitted a stud there's been a special oval deformed nut that you tighten the stud in with that opens up into a shakeproof nut once the correct torque is reached in the block, and then starts tightening up against the manifold instead - two actions with one nut. Obviously they are one shot and cannot be reused.
Tighten the two nuts against each other, then the one at the outside/end of the stud becomes the normal hex nut head for torquing up - use the inside nut when removing the stud, i.e. always turn the nut that will tighten against the other.
Once you're done, hold the end nut stationary and "tighten" the inner nut away from the stationary end one - it should not require much effort and by continuing to tighten the stud by using the inner nut it won't risk the stud being loosed. The torque required to separate the nuts should be much less than the initial stud torque.
I trust the former advice more than the latter - but even then if the books say to torque the studs, it seems that is the right way? Mind you it is Haynes.......
Mark
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Re: What have you done today.....
Yeah minty in the main - though not a guarantee - it is a Triumph and whatever they could find in the parts bin seems to be the rule!
Mark
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Re: What have you done today.....
Well, that doesn't exactly narrow it down; other than not fitting it at all you have the only other three options coveredanglefire wrote: ↑Thu Dec 21, 2017 7:36 amI've had subsequent advice that the studs should only be finger tight and not torqued at all! And even others that say to back of 1/4 turn.
I trust the former advice more than the latter - but even then if the books say to torque the studs, it seems that is the right way? Mind you it is Haynes.......
Is there anything special about the stud? Square end to hold it still whilst torquing against it, or weird oval thread patterns?
Not sure on the merits of backing it off half a turn. In my head I can see the expansion of the iron and steel will fight against each other and so I suppose if the block is machined out like a swiss cheese it could result in some warping or even damage in thin walls, but nothing close to what could happen by over-torquing a steel bolt into a blind hole.
Also if it's loose to start with what stops it rattling out when the engine is under full chat or going through normal hot/cold expansion cycles?
Good call to be careful of Haynes though in my experience they are quite good most of the time. Surely there's a pistonheads or similar site where some super mechanic who worked in the original factory posts all the tips and tricks to every part of that car?
Regards, Dom.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
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2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
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Re: What have you done today.....
Yes its an interesting conundrum!
The studs actually have a slot in the end that goes in the block to stop any oil that is in the hole doesn't expand and blow the side of the block out.
Other than that, they are just studs, that I think have been treated to make them stronger.
I'm inclined to torque them up. Most of the information about backing off seems to originate from ARP studs and then gets whispered out to standard studs! I have bought uprated nuts though - they were actually cheaper than standard ones with new washers - these are complete with an inbuilt washer and again have been treated (Oil quenched I believe) to cope with the 45Lb/ft on a 3/8" UNF bolt!
Picked up a new torque wrench today - £90 - I'm sure the old version was cheaper than that!
The studs actually have a slot in the end that goes in the block to stop any oil that is in the hole doesn't expand and blow the side of the block out.
Other than that, they are just studs, that I think have been treated to make them stronger.
I'm inclined to torque them up. Most of the information about backing off seems to originate from ARP studs and then gets whispered out to standard studs! I have bought uprated nuts though - they were actually cheaper than standard ones with new washers - these are complete with an inbuilt washer and again have been treated (Oil quenched I believe) to cope with the 45Lb/ft on a 3/8" UNF bolt!
Picked up a new torque wrench today - £90 - I'm sure the old version was cheaper than that!
Mark
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Re: What have you done today.....
Today I finally clocked past 140,000 miles...on the way to my 11th year MOT and service.
Once again exemplary service from Marshall Landrover at Didcot, and a really keen price for a main agent too.
List of advisories follows:
That was it ! Passed with no issues or advisories
One tyre is showing uneven wear but apparently there's no sign of any bush wear, and as it's my rear offside it's less likely than most to have been misaligned by a pothole. Odd! Will need further exploration methinks.
Once again exemplary service from Marshall Landrover at Didcot, and a really keen price for a main agent too.
List of advisories follows:
That was it ! Passed with no issues or advisories
One tyre is showing uneven wear but apparently there's no sign of any bush wear, and as it's my rear offside it's less likely than most to have been misaligned by a pothole. Odd! Will need further exploration methinks.
Regards, Dom.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
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Re: What have you done today.....
That’s a good result Dom, though keeping up with the things that go wrong helps and is generally cheaper in the long run
Well, I put the head on today after just tightening the studs by hand. Torqued them to the spec and will redo them in a few hundred miles.
Fitted the rockers and found the one nut is stripped. Fortunately the stud is fine so just need a new 3/8” Unf nut. Worst case I’ll nick one off the other engine.
Managed to get the mullered fuel pump stud out - Erwin was too big so resorted to pipe grips. Then found I couldn’t get the new stud in - luckily my dad found a 5/16unf tap which worked a treat and fuel pump now fitted.
Also fitted the water pump back onto the head as well as the exhaust and inlet manifolds followed by the carbs.
So, got to gap the tappets once I’ve fitted the last bolt and fit the dizzy - just got to work out how to time it up though I think I’ve got it sussed.
Then I’ve got to make a drive bar so that I can spin the oil pump over once it’s in and filled with oil - which is driven off the dizzy - so that will have to come out again
Probably won’t be allowed to swap engines on Monday
Well, I put the head on today after just tightening the studs by hand. Torqued them to the spec and will redo them in a few hundred miles.
Fitted the rockers and found the one nut is stripped. Fortunately the stud is fine so just need a new 3/8” Unf nut. Worst case I’ll nick one off the other engine.
Managed to get the mullered fuel pump stud out - Erwin was too big so resorted to pipe grips. Then found I couldn’t get the new stud in - luckily my dad found a 5/16unf tap which worked a treat and fuel pump now fitted.
Also fitted the water pump back onto the head as well as the exhaust and inlet manifolds followed by the carbs.
So, got to gap the tappets once I’ve fitted the last bolt and fit the dizzy - just got to work out how to time it up though I think I’ve got it sussed.
Then I’ve got to make a drive bar so that I can spin the oil pump over once it’s in and filled with oil - which is driven off the dizzy - so that will have to come out again
Probably won’t be allowed to swap engines on Monday
Mark
Waeco CFX 40
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Re: What have you done today.....
Yeah, it goes much easier on the wallet when you do the things as required rather than waiting for the service!
Looks like you are getting there, great stuff! Something tells me that Monday simply isn't going to be an option for you though
Looks like you are getting there, great stuff! Something tells me that Monday simply isn't going to be an option for you though
Regards, Dom.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
- anglefire
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Re: What have you done today.....
Well, I removed the engine out of the spitfire and have put the rebuilt one in today
Not got it all completed and there are a couple of snags - three studs in the engine are missing - didn't realise until I fitted it and came to put the nuts on - should be able to fit them now its in - I've also not got all the bell housing bolts in - but some are too short and some are a bit knackered - though most are in essence new. But no washers Happened to have some suitable ones in stock, so the ones I have put in are with washers.
Exhaust manifold and carbs had to come off again and still need to be refitted. I had to cut the old exhaust off as I couldn't get to one bolt on the cast iron manifold - its right against the block and couldn't even get an Irwin on - trouble was, I didn't have any rip saw blades - so SWMBO went down the road to Screwfix and got me a pack.
Used a proper clutch alignment tool - much better than a bit of dowel with some tape wrapped around it to pack it out.
And using a load leveller was very handy as the engine could be tilted back to align with the gearbox as it slid in.
Fitted new engine mounts whilst I was at it - why wouldn't you?
Electrics will be easy to refit - there are 4 wires plus the alternator plug and the main earth to the engine.
Oh and the horn - but I've got to sort how that is going to be refitted as I'm replacing the radiator with the US spec wide one - and the compressor and relay will need to be remounted somewhere as its currently on the fill in plate on the smaller rad - which is also disintegrating around the fins.
Starter motor is half in - one bolt is in the other just needs the nut fitting - but it was starting to get dark - and I had to swap the Winters off the BMW and fit the summers because is being MOT'd on the 27th and as the winters haven't got TPMS sensors fitted there is a warning light on the dash - which is an automatic fail
Not got it all completed and there are a couple of snags - three studs in the engine are missing - didn't realise until I fitted it and came to put the nuts on - should be able to fit them now its in - I've also not got all the bell housing bolts in - but some are too short and some are a bit knackered - though most are in essence new. But no washers Happened to have some suitable ones in stock, so the ones I have put in are with washers.
Exhaust manifold and carbs had to come off again and still need to be refitted. I had to cut the old exhaust off as I couldn't get to one bolt on the cast iron manifold - its right against the block and couldn't even get an Irwin on - trouble was, I didn't have any rip saw blades - so SWMBO went down the road to Screwfix and got me a pack.
Used a proper clutch alignment tool - much better than a bit of dowel with some tape wrapped around it to pack it out.
And using a load leveller was very handy as the engine could be tilted back to align with the gearbox as it slid in.
Fitted new engine mounts whilst I was at it - why wouldn't you?
Electrics will be easy to refit - there are 4 wires plus the alternator plug and the main earth to the engine.
Oh and the horn - but I've got to sort how that is going to be refitted as I'm replacing the radiator with the US spec wide one - and the compressor and relay will need to be remounted somewhere as its currently on the fill in plate on the smaller rad - which is also disintegrating around the fins.
Starter motor is half in - one bolt is in the other just needs the nut fitting - but it was starting to get dark - and I had to swap the Winters off the BMW and fit the summers because is being MOT'd on the 27th and as the winters haven't got TPMS sensors fitted there is a warning light on the dash - which is an automatic fail
Mark
Waeco CFX 40
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
Skoda Enyaq IV 80
Skoda Superb SE L Ex (Gone)
2006 disco3 SE. Gone but not forgotten.
BMW 530d M Sport Touring. Gone
Member of Admin team and
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Waeco CFX 40
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
Skoda Enyaq IV 80
Skoda Superb SE L Ex (Gone)
2006 disco3 SE. Gone but not forgotten.
BMW 530d M Sport Touring. Gone
Member of Admin team and
Disco3Club Photos: Here
- anglefire
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Re: What have you done today.....
Not done a great deal on the Spitfire since last Sunday - except I've refitted the manifolds and carbs, dry fitted the exhaust - just need to go and get some more clamps and make up a bracket for the one tip - the exhaust is now a twin tail pipe job and a tubular stainless 4-2-1 Manifold to go with it.
Also found the fuel pump leaks through the diaphragm and the frame for the radiator is past its best.
So I've ordered yet more bits!
Also found the fuel pump leaks through the diaphragm and the frame for the radiator is past its best.
So I've ordered yet more bits!
Mark
Waeco CFX 40
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Skoda Enyaq IV 80
Skoda Superb SE L Ex (Gone)
2006 disco3 SE. Gone but not forgotten.
BMW 530d M Sport Touring. Gone
Member of Admin team and
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Waeco CFX 40
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Skoda Superb SE L Ex (Gone)
2006 disco3 SE. Gone but not forgotten.
BMW 530d M Sport Touring. Gone
Member of Admin team and
Disco3Club Photos: Here