Hi,
Can anyone tell me or point me to a diagram of the driver window control panel pinouts please? I have an intermittent problem of the rear windows not operating, mostly not. I have replaced the switch panel with a pre used one which also does not work so I am still kind of at square one not knowing if its the switch or wires. I may need to take out the CJB but I do not have a sunroof to leak so is the problem likely to be there?
Window switch & CJB
- PillowSmuggler
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Re: Window switch & CJB
Is it the drivers switch panel you replaced, or the ones on the back doors?
I'm not sure the CJB is even involved in window operation or we'd all have auto window closure at lock time, so I'd be looking at the power feed to/from the "rear window disable switch" on the drivers control module first.
I'm not sure the CJB is even involved in window operation or we'd all have auto window closure at lock time, so I'd be looking at the power feed to/from the "rear window disable switch" on the drivers control module first.
Regards, Dom.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
Re: Window switch & CJB
I replaced the drivers panel.
The CJBs involvement is that it has the window lift relay built into it. I an assuming that the relay is not the problem as non of the windows would work, So the problem must be within the loom I have a brand new battery that is being gradually drained as when I check, it only seems to be putting out just north of 12v.
The CJBs involvement is that it has the window lift relay built into it. I an assuming that the relay is not the problem as non of the windows would work, So the problem must be within the loom I have a brand new battery that is being gradually drained as when I check, it only seems to be putting out just north of 12v.
- PillowSmuggler
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Re: Window switch & CJB
Agree, the CJB relay just provides the power, so it should be all or nothing. Is there a separate fuse for front and rear windows in your car? A stalled motor can draw quite a bit of current so separate fuses wouldn't surprise me. Fuses have been known to crack rather than blow and could be the cause of your intermittent behaviour?
Regards, Dom.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
- PillowSmuggler
- Committee Member
- Posts: 7587
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:17 am
- Winner: Avatar of the Year 2012
Comedian of the Year 2013
Mechanic of the Year 2014
Clube Member of the Year 2014 - Car Details: Disco3 TDV6 HSE 2007
- Member Since: 29 Jun 2013
- Location: http://goo.gl/maps/WGOsq
Re: Window switch & CJB
I haven't found a diagram for the disco, but assume that it follows the common pattern that most cars follow; see
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments ... jpg.12935/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
for an example from another car.
Biggest thing I've noticed from this diagram is that the ground for the back two door motors is in the drivers door...ground faults are notorious for doing strange things; might be worth another look in there to see how the grounds and +ve are fed to the rear doors control switches? You should also be able to use a multi-meter at the drivers switch contacts to check continuity/resistance of the rear motors when the switches are operated; that should establish which wires(s) are not conducting.
IMHO based on the diagram, to affect both rear windows at the same time the issue is in the +ve or -ve common feed to the rear windows from the drivers switch; i.e all in that front door and drivers controls or switches 99 and 100 in the linked diagram.
This all makes for another question to check that - when the rear windows don't work, is that just from the rear window switches, the drivers window switches or both?
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments ... jpg.12935/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
for an example from another car.
Biggest thing I've noticed from this diagram is that the ground for the back two door motors is in the drivers door...ground faults are notorious for doing strange things; might be worth another look in there to see how the grounds and +ve are fed to the rear doors control switches? You should also be able to use a multi-meter at the drivers switch contacts to check continuity/resistance of the rear motors when the switches are operated; that should establish which wires(s) are not conducting.
IMHO based on the diagram, to affect both rear windows at the same time the issue is in the +ve or -ve common feed to the rear windows from the drivers switch; i.e all in that front door and drivers controls or switches 99 and 100 in the linked diagram.
This all makes for another question to check that - when the rear windows don't work, is that just from the rear window switches, the drivers window switches or both?
Regards, Dom.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.
2007 HSE Auto TDV6
Snorkel, Cyclonic air filter, GNVP Rock Sliders
78Ah Aux, Split charge, FBH Timer/Remote, Mantec sump plate
LED: Strobes, interior, camping, brake, running, sides
New Oil Pump, using 2SO at 1:400.