Water & electrics?

[hangman3]

Are there any particular water ingress issues that are known to interfere with the electrics and if so, where and how do I get to them to sort it please?

[PillowSmuggler]

That's a very short question that could take a very long answer!
If you have such issues can you list the issues you are having? It may help us be more specific.

Generally speaking, as the CAN-Bus goes all around the car, any of the connectors could be the source of an issue - and that's before you start including physical damage to the loom.

I have a policy of using a specialist contact grease called Contralube 770 every single time I break a connection, so it goes back together with an anti-corrosive waterproof protective coating on the contacts but importantly doesn't block any electrical activity (which silicone grease can do so should be avoided). I also make sure there is some on the o-rings as this has the benefit of lubricating the plugs so they can be easier opened in future.

As a single example the ECU next to the engine management box behind the battery (rhd cars) is a known Achilles heel as it is not waterproofed in any way, having originally been designed to be mounted on the inside of the car. As a result, never ever jet wash in the engine bay, never wade that deep and never allow rain water to rush off the bonnet when opening it as it can flood into that location (that's the fail badge I have).
Water in this ECU affects the transfer box, and also the individual wheel traction control provided via the individual wheel brakes and powered by the ABS ecu. It can also make Special programs unavailable, Range change unavailable, and does not fix itself by powering off and on again; the OBD2 codes have to be cleared to re-instate fully working traction controls and then only when the ecu has been dried out.

[hangman3]

I have a policy of using a specialist contact grease called Contralube 770 every single time I break a connection, so it goes back together with an anti-corrosive waterproof protective coating on the contacts but importantly doesn't block any electrical activity (which silicone grease can do so should be avoided). I also make sure there is some on the o-rings as this has the benefit of lubricating the plugs so they can be easier opened in future.

I have hunted hi & lo for this stuff & it seems impossible to get hold of unless I am prepared to pay an extortionate price. Is there a suitable alternative that's nod dielectric grease?

[anglefire]

Maplins?


https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/contralube-7 ... chet-n78dd" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[PillowSmuggler]

Well, I took a look around and all I can say is I'm amazed how much it now costs!

I did find another forum where someone emailed the manufacturer and they got this reply:

Hi Mark,

My name is Peter from Newgate Simms, the maker of Contralube....I'm the tech help/product support chap.

The 75gram tube is now out of stock (maybe the odd one hanging around on Amazon or ebay?) I'm sorry for this Mark but it can't be helped.

Some background...
A key supplier of the base oil and a chemical required to make the product went bust. They were a cheap supplier from the far east and although we have secured a new long term supply for the future, the price has shot through the roof. The new base oil for the grease is much superior but in reality the average user wouldn't notice the difference so Contralube 770 is "new and improved formula" but I'm not sure if customers would notice the difference.

This massive price jump is not something we wanted to do and we did think about discontinuing the product. However, Contralube 770 has a surprisingly loyal following and does tick over nicely each year.

Some resellers did not think the product would sell at the new price but we haven't seen a negative effect. Contralube 770 is a problem solving product and (within reason) people would pay whatever it takes to fix their problems...this opinion has been backed up by recent events; yes people are annoyed at the price rise but they still keep buying the product.

Again, sorry about the price rise Mark, we are only a small UK manufacturer but really want to keep the product going as it has some big fans out there.

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. I've attached the new updated product data sheet and our 'facts & myths' sheet for you (in case you haven't seen them before). Data sheet Facts & Myths

Regards
Peter

I'm afraid at the moment I'm not aware of a replacement for this product; anything with a silicon base is going to impede small electrical signals, and anything petrochemical could harm the plastic housings. I'll keep searching but for now it looks like there are only old stock supplies here and there. Maplin seem to have a few 8g 90 pence packs left in some stores (none for delivery) so if you can find a few of those it could see you through; you don't need much, just enough to lubricate the pins, not enough to fill the connector.

[anglefire]

Must admit I didn't look at stock levels. But just have and there is 1 tube in yovil some 100miles away for a 90p tube.

[hangman3]

Must admit I didn't look at stock levels. But just have and there is 1 tube in yovil some 100miles away for a 90p tube.

I found the same tube in Yeovil 35ml from me & Maplin don't deliver.

[anglefire]

35miles - so just over 2 gallons of diesel - makes a 90p tube about £12 - makes the new version cheap I guess.

[hangman3]

35miles - so just over 2 gallons of diesel - makes a 90p tube about £12 - makes the new version cheap I guess.

When you look at it like that then I suppose it does, but at12 notes for 8gm sachet, I think I will look for an alternative.

[anglefire]

Or you can look at it this way. You can get the latest stuff I assume - its just expensive.

How much do you value your time? Spend an hour looking for something and you have "cost" yourself anything from £10 to £50 or more depending on your job - even minimum wage is going to be only a couple of hours time..........

Just saying